The process of readying the iris plants for winters should start in fall, right after the first frost. Start by a nice clean up of the cultivated area. This will improve the visibility and make it easier to identify damaged or infected foliage. Use this opportunity to remove any weeds that may have come up near your plants. Dispose of all discarded matter at a safe distance.

Pruning iris plants is the next step. Use a clean, sharp knife and reduce the plants to a height of 6-8 inches from the ground. This will cut down on the plants’ food supply, thus, instigating the plants to enter dormancy. Make sure not to remove all the leaves. If you come across a plant that’s seriously infected, I’d recommend you remove it from the site and dispose of along with the rest of the removed foliage. Spraying the plants with standard fungicides is a great way of checking further spread of diseases.

Mulch your plants using straw, hay and other organic substances. Add a good 4-5 inch layer on the base of your plants. This will protect the roots from freezing when the temperatures dip.

That’s about all! Pretty easy, right? Take good care of your irises, and, while you’re at it, make sure you have a good time!

Ancient Greeks considered the flower to be a symbol of Iris, the goddess who led the souls of the deceased to afterlife.

The iris was equally revered in ancient Egypt where it was used in decoration of the funeral temples of the pharaohs. King Thutmose III is said to have brought irises to Egypt, having come across the beautiful flowers during his successful battle against the Syrians. He later ordained the creation of iris sculptors in the Temple of Amon. Iris gardens built close to his palace further added to the flower’s rising popularity.

Far off in India, the iris was widely used in preparation of medicines. The regions Iris Mesopotamia and Iris Kashmiriana, key points during Alexander the Great’s invasion of India, were apparently named after species of iris.

According to French lore, King Clovis promised his Christian wife he’d embrace Christianity if he succeeded in the impending battle against the Germans. He kept his promise after an unlikely victory, thus, accepting the Fleur-de-lis as his symbol. French King Louis is said to have had a dream that inspired him to declare the purple iris as the insignia of royalty.

The iris witnessed plenty of bloodshed during the French revolution. The revolutionaries demolished every structure bearing the Fleur-de-lis in an attempt to erase all signs of royalty. Following the success of the revolution, the iris was no longer associated with monarchy. It still retained its magical appeal and soon became quite common in gardens all over the world.

Decades later, the iris continues to be loved and revered, perhaps more passionately than ever!

Spring is ideal for starting seeds indoors. Begin with 7-8 weeks to go for the expected last frost date. I’ve found commercially available seed starting medium to be of great help in gardening from seed. Quality is paramount. Make it a point to purchase only from a trusted brand. An hour before sowing seeds, water lightly to moisten the medium. Check the instructions on the seed packet for the ideal planting depth. Again, water lightly after sowing seeds and cover the container with a sheet of plastic. Young seedlings are like identical twins, so very hard to tell apart! Labeling, I’ve learned the hard way, is the best way to avoid confusion.

Seeds require considerable moisture for their growth. Sprinkle often enough to keep the medium moist at all times. Remove the plastic cover after seed germination. Use of artificial lamps is the easiest way of creating conditions favorable for optimum growth. Refer to the details on the seed packet for the right temperature settings. When your plants have produced at least 2 sets of true leaves, start fertilizing them weekly. The seedlings will soon be ready to be moved to individual pots for hardening. Start by placing the plants in a shaded part of your garden for 2-3 hours. Gradually increase the time they spend outside over a period of 10-12 days and transplant after all threat of frost is past.

Regular care, a little effort and love is about all that your plants will need in the subsequent times. Not a hard bargain for the garden of your dreams!

I love the fall season. Some gardeners give up after September, because they think there’s nothing left to do. It is true that with the cooler weather and holidays upon us, there may not be much time left to enjoy your garden before winter.

But, don’t fret, fellow gardener: There is still time to do some bulb planting! In fact, most flower bulbs have to be planted in the fall, because they need a dormancy period time to become rooted before they can bloom big and boldly in the spring. Planting bulbs is very simple, and the great thing about ordering from the Spring Hill catalog or website is that we ship our plants and bulbs to you at exactly the right planting time for your region and zone.

Stargazer Lily from Gurney's Seed & Nursery

Planting Bulbs

Bulbs are usually planted before the first hard frost. In colder northern climates, this will usually be October or early November; in warmer climates, December may be the best month. If Mother Nature isn’t providing your area with cool temperatures, you can do so yourself by prepping your bulbs in the refrigerator for 6-8 weeks.

When the time comes, plant your bulbs with the pointy end facing skyward at a depth that is twice as deep as the bulb is tall. When you’re planting just a few bulbs, the easiest way is to dig a series of holes, each hole large enough to accommodate four or five bulbs. If you’re planting en masse, you can either dig a trench (for a nice, long swath of blooms), or get a special gardening awl attachment for your power drill to dig each hole individually.

Bulb needs

After filling the holes, lay 2-3” of mulch (compost, straw or leaves). Mulch is especially helpful in cold or dry climates because it insulates the soil and maintains even soil moisture. Additionally, mulch inhibits weed growth and prevents soil from splashing onto flowers and foliage during watering or periods of rain.

Typically, bulbs do well in areas with partial to full sun. Soils should be well aerated and well drained, slightly acidic (pH 6-7), and cultivated to a depth of about 8-12”. I recommend adding decomposed organic material, as this will improve moisture retention.

During their growing or blooming seasons, give your bulbs a deep watering when natural rainfall is less than 1” per week. Most bulbs benefit from a fertilizer such as bonemeal.

And there you have it! For ease of planting and show stopping color, nothing beats flower bulbs. Click here to see Spring Hill’s huge selection of flower bulbs!

Companion planting is combining the right plants together to provide nutrients, protect against disease, repel pests and attract beneficial insects. Generations of gardeners have taken advantage of these natural relationships and benefits. Here are some tips for companion planting, depending on what you want to accomplish:

Plants that nourish ― like lupines, peas and beans ― can pull nitrogen from the air and transform it into a usable nutrient in the soil.

Plants that protect against disease ― like garlic, onions and chives will help prevent black spot on roses and scab on apples. And those pesky dandelions will deter fusarium wilt (a fungal disease) from attacking your tomatoes.

Plants that repel unwanted insects ― like lavender, sage, oregano or other strong-scented herbs will scare off aphids. Some plants, like marigolds, contain thiopene in their roots which are toxic to certain soil-dwelling nematodes. This makes them a great companion for tomatoes and beans. Still other plants ― like cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower ― although safe for us to eat, can poison spider mites, mosquitoes. Japanese beetles will be done-in by white geraniums and larkspur.

Plants that attract beneficial insects ― like sunflowers, zinnias and coreopsis attract lady beetles, lacewings, and hover flies for example. These beneficial adults and their larvae feed on the unwanted insects. Thyme, parsley, and lemon balm are among a few of the herbs that also attract these helpful bugs.

I plan to mix and match these companions throughout my garden; I may even discover some beneficial combinations on my own. The end result is bound to be a healthier, more beautiful and productive garden.