Love flowers? Then you just have to try growing flowers from seed! It’s easy, exciting and very economical. You can grow those rare flower varieties that aren’t available at the garden stores, that too, by spending much less than their market price. Also, growing from seed promises the joy and satisfaction of being able to oversee your plants right from the start!
Spring is ideal for starting seeds indoors. Begin with 7-8 weeks to go for the expected last frost date. I’ve found commercially available seed starting medium to be of great help in gardening from seed. Quality is paramount. Make it a point to purchase only from a trusted brand. An hour before sowing seeds, water lightly to moisten the medium. Check the instructions on the seed packet for the ideal planting depth. Again, water lightly after sowing seeds and cover the container with a sheet of plastic. Young seedlings are like identical twins, so very hard to tell apart! Labeling, I’ve learned the hard way, is the best way to avoid confusion.
Seeds require considerable moisture for their growth. Sprinkle often enough to keep the medium moist at all times. Remove the plastic cover after seed germination. Use of artificial lamps is the easiest way of creating conditions favorable for optimum growth. Refer to the details on the seed packet for the right temperature settings. When your plants have produced at least 2 sets of true leaves, start fertilizing them weekly. The seedlings will soon be ready to be moved to individual pots for hardening. Start by placing the plants in a shaded part of your garden for 2-3 hours. Gradually increase the time they spend outside over a period of 10-12 days and transplant after all threat of frost is past.
Regular care, a little effort and love is about all that your plants will need in the subsequent times. Not a hard bargain for the garden of your dreams!
I love the fall season. Some gardeners give up after September, because they think there’s nothing left to do. It is true that with the cooler weather and holidays upon us, there may not be much time left to enjoy your garden before winter.
But, don’t fret, fellow gardener: There is still time to do some bulb planting! In fact, most flower bulbs have to be planted in the fall, because they need a dormancy period time to become rooted before they can bloom big and boldly in the spring. Planting bulbs is very simple, and the great thing about ordering from the Spring Hill catalog or website is that we ship our plants and bulbs to you at exactly the right planting time for your region and zone.
Stargazer Lily from Gurney's Seed & Nursery
Planting Bulbs
Bulbs are usually planted before the first hard frost. In colder northern climates, this will usually be October or early November; in warmer climates, December may be the best month. If Mother Nature isn’t providing your area with cool temperatures, you can do so yourself by prepping your bulbs in the refrigerator for 6-8 weeks.
When the time comes, plant your bulbs with the pointy end facing skyward at a depth that is twice as deep as the bulb is tall. When you’re planting just a few bulbs, the easiest way is to dig a series of holes, each hole large enough to accommodate four or five bulbs. If you’re planting en masse, you can either dig a trench (for a nice, long swath of blooms), or get a special gardening awl attachment for your power drill to dig each hole individually.
Bulb needs
After filling the holes, lay 2-3” of mulch (compost, straw or leaves). Mulch is especially helpful in cold or dry climates because it insulates the soil and maintains even soil moisture. Additionally, mulch inhibits weed growth and prevents soil from splashing onto flowers and foliage during watering or periods of rain.
Typically, bulbs do well in areas with partial to full sun. Soils should be well aerated and well drained, slightly acidic (pH 6-7), and cultivated to a depth of about 8-12”. I recommend adding decomposed organic material, as this will improve moisture retention.
During their growing or blooming seasons, give your bulbs a deep watering when natural rainfall is less than 1” per week. Most bulbs benefit from a fertilizer such as bonemeal.
When I was planting this year’s garden, I decided this time I was going to mix things up a bit! In the past I’ve always planted flowers together in beds and vegetables in their own plot. As I was reading about companion plantings this spring, I learned that it works best when growing a diversity of plants: a medley of flowers and herbs among some vegetables, and a vegetable or two tucked away in a flower bed.
Companion planting is combining the right plants together to provide nutrients, protect against disease, repel pests and attract beneficial insects. Generations of gardeners have taken advantage of these natural relationships and benefits. Here are some tips for companion planting, depending on what you want to accomplish:
Plants that nourish ― like lupines, peas and beans ― can pull nitrogen from the air and transform it into a usable nutrient in the soil.
Plants that protect against disease ― like garlic, onions and chives will help prevent black spot on roses and scab on apples. And those pesky dandelions will deter fusarium wilt (a fungal disease) from attacking your tomatoes.
Plants that repel unwanted insects ― like lavender, sage, oregano or other strong-scented herbs will scare off aphids. Some plants, like marigolds, contain thiopene in their roots which are toxic to certain soil-dwelling nematodes. This makes them a great companion for tomatoes and beans.Still other plants ― like cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower ― although safe for us to eat, can poison spider mites, mosquitoes. Japanese beetles will be done-in by white geraniums and larkspur.
Plants that attract beneficial insects ― like sunflowers, zinnias and coreopsis attract lady beetles, lacewings, and hover flies for example. These beneficial adults and their larvae feed on the unwanted insects. Thyme, parsley, and lemon balm are among a few of the herbs that also attract these helpful bugs.
I plan to mix and match these companions throughout my garden; I may even discover some beneficial combinations on my own. The end result is bound to be a healthier, more beautiful and productive garden.
So I recently mulched my garden, as we’ve been getting some crazy heat here in the Midwest these past few weeks, and I thought I would write a blog post about the importance of mulching, along with some great mulching tips.
Mulching is one of the best things you can do for your plants. Mulching protects your plants from extreme temperatures, keeps moisture in, and keeps down nasty weeds (which seem to have no trouble growing in ANY climate!).
There are two types of mulch: Inorganic mulch and organic mulch. Inorganic mulches like stones, gravel, plastic sheets, and landscape fabric, are used mostly for weed control and moisture retention in permanent beds. They don’t decompose, which means they will last a long time, but they won’t contribute any nutrients to the soil.
Organic mulches include bark mulch, wood chips, grass clippings, straw and compost. Bark mulch is probably the most common organic mulch, and it’s a good choice. Aged bark mulch is awesome and probably the best out there, but it can be more expensive.
Try to only buy bark mulch that has been composted for at least one year. Wood chips and sawdust have the same benefits as bark mulch, and it’s cheaper, but it won’t last as long. Arguably the cheapest mulch is grass clippings and shredded leaves. And for being free, they work pretty well as a mulch, as long as they are dried before being laid down. Grass clippings also won’t last very long, but they will add great nutrients to your soil. Make sure you avoid using grass that has been treated with chemicals.
Compost is my personal favorite mulch. Mostly because it’s cheap, but also because it can be used anywhere in the yard, and it feeds the soil good nutrients as it decomposes.
Some other tips: Spreading mulch too deep will suffocate your plants. Spread wood-based mulches about 2″ deep; grass, leaves and straw should be about 3-4″. For inorganic mulches, spread a layer only think enough to prevent weeds. Always leave an inch or two around the base of the plant to allow air to circulate. With trees, leave about 4″ of space.
Here’s a little video we did about this very subject. View, and enjoy.
As you can tell by our name, we love irises! That’s why we started IrisLovers.com, to share with you our joy of iris flowers. This blog is a place we will use to share tips, plant information, product announcements and more! Our friends and partners over at Spring Hill Nurseries are just as excited as we are to get the iris party started this year!
You may be new to irises and their striking beauty. Perhaps you’re interested in growing irises, but aren’t sure where to begin. We are here to help – we’re the iris experts!
Irises, with their fan-like foliage and spectacular flowers are easy – and rewarding – to grow. Incredible color combinations and showy blooms combine with dependability to make Irises one of the most popular flowers for home gardeners. Irises are versatile, carefree plants that bloom faithfully and multiply annually without much help. Plant them in borders or as their own groupings. Let them expand to fill a large area. Their sun and soil needs are flexible, giving you lots of garden design options.
So be sure to check back often for lots of iris care tips and iris information. Make sure you follow our friends at Spring Hill Nursery on Twitter and Facebook!
Love flowers? Then you just have to try growing flowers from seed! It’s easy, exciting and very economical. You can grow those rare flower varieties that aren’t available at the garden stores, that too, by spending much less than their market price. Also, growing from seed promises the joy and satisfaction of being able to oversee your plants right from the start!
Mulching is one of the best things you can do for your plants. Mulching protects your plants from extreme temperatures, keeps moisture in, and keeps down nasty weeds (which seem to have no trouble growing in ANY climate!).